Text Box: Xpedition 8000

Dispatch Forty-five: October 8th, 2009

2009 Shishapangma Expedition

Day Forty-five: High Winds; Hope for Summit Bid; Problems with LO

Today, we woke up to a very windy base camp. The weather was very unstable with periods of strong sun, followed by heavy snow. High winds were the only constant throughout the day. We have decided to start up for our final summit bid on the 11th of October, with our summit day being either the 14th or 15th. Late in the afternoon, we received a letter from our Liaison Officer, Norbu. It stated that we had already summitted Shishapangma (something another expedition must have told to him on their way down) and that if we headed up again, we would be in trouble, as our permit was for one summit of Shishapangma. He warned us that it would be extremely dangerous to go up again to 8000 meters and that we should think of the staff in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp (his letter made very little sense). He also reminded us that our climbing permit expires on the 20 of October. I wrote a note back reassuring him that we didn't in fact summit Shishapangma and that we were heading up in a few days for our final summit bid and would be down in Chinese Base Camp before the expiry of our climbing permit. We had dinner, chatted for a bit with Horea and Kinga, then headed to bed, high winds continuing throughout the night.

Photo: Left: High winds high on Shishapangma; Right: Horrible weather in base camp


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