Text Box: Xpedition 8000

Dispatch Forty-two: October 5th, 2009

2009 Shishapangma Expedition

Day Forty-two: Plans for Summit Bid Despite Bad Weather Forecast

Today, shortly after waking up, Mario came over to my tent with less than desirable news about the weather. Severe precipitation is forecast for the 8th and 9th of October. We quickly decided that we would head up tomorrow directly to Camp II and try and beat the bad weather. After the snow falls, the Iñaki route will surely be too avalanche prone and will be far too dangerous for an attempt. Even with the dry season we have had so far, there is a considerable amount of snow on the slope, so we can only imagine how bad the route conditions will be after heavy snow fall.  Therefore, we will try for the main summit quickly before the new snow falls and hopefully get up and down before the bad weather begins. We are expecting the forecast high winds (around 40km/hr) on our summit push and hoping that all our cold weather gear is enough to stave off frostbite (something that quite a few climbers have come down with from their summit pushes so far). Mario and I will be teaming up with Kinga Baranowska (Poland) and Horea (Romania) for our summit push.

Photo: Shishapangma’s Summit Routes (Iñaki in Red and the “Commercial” Route in Green) with the Main Summit and Central Summits Labeled *note that the majority of climbers who climbed on the “Commercial Route” only reached the “north summit” which at an altitude less than 8000 meters, as the fixed lines


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