Text Box: Xpedition 8000

Dispatch Forty-one: October 4th, 2009

2009 Shishapangma Expedition

Day Forty-one: Heavy Snowfall in Forecast; Andrew Lock in ABC

Today, after breakfast, I headed down to Louís tent to await the arrival of Andrew and Neil from Camp I. They arrived around 2pm, Horea and Kinga meeting them half way to help them with their heavy packs. We chatted for the majority of the afternoon about route conditions on the IŮaki Route (rather the variation that they climbed) and the problematic ridge. They described a dangerous arrťte with a double sided cornice that had to be cleaned as they climbed the ridge. They also spoke of some slab avalanche risk factors along the route. It will definitely be interesting to see the way with our own eyes in a few days. They told us that we should definitely bring along some more flags to further mark the route as the lack of visibility of the next flag 50m from them was the reason that they were forced to bivy just under the rock band. We left them to rest for the remainder of the afternoon.†

Photos: Left: Andrew Lock and Neil Ward a few kilos lighter upon their return from their successful summit bid (Main Summit) ; Right: Shishapangma with high winds arriving to the south face the day of Andrew and Neilís Summit


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