Text Box: Xpedition 8000

Dispatch Thirty-nine: October 2nd, 2009

2009 Shishapangma Expedition

Day Thirty-nine: Andrew Lock on Main Summit via Variation of IŮaki

Today, we spent the majority of the day keeping an eye on the summit ridge with binoculars. Andrew Lock and Neil Ward started up a variation of the IŮaki route this morning at first light along with Alex Gavan. As the afternoon progressed, winds picked up and clouds rolled in obscuring our view. We killed the time in the afternoon and distracted ourselves from worrying by baking some amazing brownies (pictured above) and watching the DVD Surfís Up. We shared dinner with Horea (Romania) then headed down to Lou and Kingaís camp to watch yet another DVD and to wait for news over the radio from Andrew about whether or not they had summitted the Main Summit and to ensure that they had made it safely back down to Camp III. While we were waiting, Alex arrived from the summit push in base camp. He had started to show symptoms of HAPE so decided to turn around on the traverse. Radio news never arrived from Lock (which didnít exactly worry us as we knew they didnít have the radios on them (they were in the tent in Camp III) and that the route they were on was very long and snow was deep). We couldnít see headlamps on the ridge, as clouds were lingering, obscuring our view, so we headed to bed, assuming there would be news by morning and that they had bivied somewhere on the route.††

Photos: Left: Lou and Nick cooking in Base Camp ; Right: Camp III, The Chinese Route and IŮaki route visible on the upper flanks of Shishapangma


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