Text Box: Xpedition 8000

Dispatch Thirty-three: September 26th, 2009

2009 Shishapangma Expedition

Day Thirty-three: Climb from Camp II to Camp III in Deep Snow

Today, we woke up to calm conditions, with some lingering clouds on the plateau between Camp II and Camp III. We headed out in the morning heat, slowly breaking trail through knee-deep snow. We finally intersected with the Chinese, who had put up fixed lines to the north summit this morning (using three bottled of oxygen). They were heading down the final slope to Camp III. We arrived to Camp III after seven hours of climbing, exhausted. We set up camp in increasing winds and quickly took refuge in the tents. Thanks to the late hour, none of our gear was allowed to dry in the sun, and everything quickly froze that had accumulated any humidity. Mario and I made water in the crammed Mountain Hardwear EV2 tent then yelled to Juanito and Jorea’s tent about plans for the morning. We plan on leaving at 3am if the winds calm down; if not, we will leave at 4am, as the sun arrives to the ridge at 5am and will hopefully warm our frozen extremities. Shishapangma is noticeably colder than other 8000 meter peaks we have climbed on (and that cumulatively amounts to every 8000 meter peak on earth) so we are prepared for a very cold morning.

Photos: Left: The ridge from Camp III to the summit ; Right: Camp III with the summit ridge in the background; high winds


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