Text Box: Xpedition 8000

Dispatch Thirty: September 23rd, 2009

2009 Shishapangma Expedition

Day Thirty: Final Preparations for Summit Bid

Finally, after discussing plans with Juanito Orizaba and Andrew Lock, Mario and I decided on September 24th as our departure date for our summit bid. Juanito is set on attempting the traverse, and says that if itís not possible, he will descend and go home rather than attempt the IŮaki variation. Luckily, Andrew Lock is willing to attempt the IŮaki variation pending a bit more acclimatization (he is heading up to Camp I tomorrow, Camp II the next day, then down for a rest period, aiming for the 1st of October as a potential summit day). Also, the Romanians may be willing to head up for a summit bid in early October despite only having been here in base camp for a week. They are also very keen on attempting the IŮaki variation. As it stands now, the summit weather window looks to be long and stable enough for two attempts, though Mario and I are of course hoping to reach the main summit on our first attempt. We spent the afternoon preparing our backpacks with enough food and fuel for Camp III to sustain us for a few days in case conditions donít cooperate with our plans. The plan now is to head up to Camp I tomorrow, Camp II on the 25th (which is forecast to have high winds), Camp III on the 26th, and attempt the summit on the 27th.

Photos: Left: Nick preparing his backpack in Advanced Base Camp ; Right: Shishapangma viewed from the upper route to the deposit


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