Text Box: Xpedition 8000

Dispatch Fourteen: April 7th, 2010

Annapurna Expedition 2010

Day Fourteen: Climb to Camp I (4,900 meters)

Today, I woke up at 5:30am, packed up my things and had a quick breakfast before heading out into the cool morning. My pack turned out to be around 25kgs, containing everything I would need to both establish and sleep in Camp I. The way began over the glacial moraine before veering over to the left and traversing the cliff side until dropping abruptly onto the glacier. It was here that I realized that my 8000m boots were far too heavy duty for the terrain to Camp I, my feet already in agony. After a short way on the glacier, I headed up a low-grade rock face covered in hard ice and began ascending moderate terrain up to a col. Here, the route traversed a patchy snowfield that eventually yielded Camp I (4,900 meters). I quickly pitched my tent and secured it down. I realized while unpacking that I had neglected to bring my headlamp and pondered returning to base camp rather than spending the night in Camp I without light. I had, however, lugged up my sleeping bag and enough food and fuel for my stay overnight so I opted to sleep in Camp I as planned, hoping the moon would be out. I made dinner well in advance of sunset and organized my tent so that everything would be easy to locate in the dark. The sun set and the temperature dropped. I boiled some water, filled up my bottles and threw them into my 0 degree sleeping bag and dozed off, the distant thunder of the odd avalanche rousing me from my slumber, but only for an instant.

Photos: Left: Annapurna viewed from Camp I, the crevasses field in the foreground; Right: Carlos Pauner enroute to Camp I

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